Method of making shoes.



Rd M T am 3W m1 3 E E a a mmm pm 1 E BROTHERS METHOD OF WIMUNGSHOES.

APPLICATION FILED JULY 15.19141.

VI HIM E. BRUTHERS.

mnrmon or MAKING suozs. APPLICATION FILED JULY 5. I914.

Patented AW 13, W15.

/ T/VESSES M W T E. BROTHERS.

METHOD OF MAKING SHOES.

APPLICATION mm mm: 15. m4.

1139 a SHEETS-SH ET 3.

P A m m ELI EROTHEF'N OE LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY COMPANY, O15 PATTERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

METHOD OF MAKING SHOES.

Patented Apr... is, rare.

Original application filed June 7, 1906, Serial No. 320,610. Divided and this application filed July 15, 1914. Serial No. $51,194.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that T, ELI BROTHERS, a citizen of the United States, residing at Lynn, in the county of Essex and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain Improvements in Methods of Making Shoes, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like reference characters on the drawings indicating like parts in the several figures.

This invention relates to the manufacture of boots and shoes and particularly to improvements in methods of making shoes, and this application is a division of application Ser. No. 320,610, filed June 7, 1906, for pulling-over and lasting machines.

Heretofore the operation of pulling-over shoes and the operation of lasting shoes have been separate and distinct operations.

I have devised a practical method by which the pulling-over operation, by which I mean the stretching and, when necessary,

the adjusting of the upper for correctly lorompletion of the lasting.

eating the lines of the upper, including the tip seam and the lacing slit, and the lasting operation can be performed consecutively or as successive steps in asingle operation.

This invention contemplates interrupting the pulling-over operation when the upper has been tensioned and the correct location of the lines of the shoe have been obtained, and at once beginning the lasting operation at the toe.

The illustratedmanner of practising the invention comprises engaging the upper on a substantially continuous line extending around the toe of the last in such manner as to hold it substantially free from wrinkles in that portion of the toe of the upper which is exposed to view in the completed shoe. The forepart portion of the upper may advantageously be held outwardly away from the edge of the last while it is being pulled and adjusted, as by so doing the upper stretches and adjusts most freely. This outward pull may be continued while the upper, during lasting, is bent under tension inwardly to the edge of the last and then the tension relaxed as required for the This contributes to maintaining the portion of the upper which is visible in the finished shoe free from wrinkles until the operation is completed.

The illustrated manner of practising the invention further comprises positioning the shoe with the portion of the upper which extends over the forepart of the last visible to the operative as he is standing in Working relation to the shoe and maintaining the shoe in such a position during the lasting as well as the pulling-over steps of the oper-' ation. This position of the shoe has the advantage that the operative can not only watch the upper while the pulling-over tension is being applied and the location of the lines of the shoe secured, but he can also watch the effect of the lasting operation upon the top face of the toe so that he is constantly advised of the condition of the upper.

The invention will more clearly appear from the following description which sets forth how it may be practised with the aid of one form of apparatus which is illustrated in the accompanying drawings, said apparatus being of the same general construction as the one described and claimed in said application Ser. No. 320,610, and the invention will then be particularly pointed out in the claims.

Figure 1 is a perspective view of a shoe comprising an innersole and upper materials arranged upon alast in condition to be pulled over and lasted. Fig. 2 is a perspective view of the same shoe pulled over and lasted around the toe in accordance with the present invention. Fig. 3 is a side elevation, partly in section, of the shoe in process of pulling-over, together with a portion of an apparatus adapted for use in practising this invention. Fig. 4 represents a transverse horizontal section through the shoe and the apparatus of Fig. 1. Fig. 5 shows, as compared with Fig. 3, the last and the upper relatively adjusted to position the lines of the upper correctly. This shows the point at which the pulling-over operation is interrupted without overlaying or tacking the upper and the lasting operation is commenced upon the upper held free from wrinkles under pulling-over tension. Fig. 6 is a view similar to Fig. 5 after the lasting has been commenced by embracing the upper on a continuous line extending from one side of the toe around the end of the toe to the other side and working it free from wrinkles and still under tension over the edge of the innersole. Fig. 7 shows the following stage with the tension relaxed and the margin of the upper wiped into lasted position upon the shoe bottom. Fig. 8 shows in transverse section the shoe in the same condition ready to be secured, as by a toe binding wire and anchor tacks. Fig. 9 is a side elevation of the shoein the complete apparatus; and Fig. 10 is a front elevation of the same. v

The innersole and the upper materials are arranged upon the last as shown in Fig. 1, with the forepart portion of the upper movable on the last, and the object of the method is to produce the shoe shown in Fig. 2. For this purpose the shoe is positioned with the portion of the upper which extends over the forepart of the last visible to the operative standing in working relation to the shoe.

This may be doneby positioning the shoe with its toe end pointing upwardly as in Figs. 3, 9 and 10, where the heel rests down upon a heel fork 2 and the bottom of the forepart rests back against a sole rest 4.

The margin of the forepart portion of the upper of a shoe so positioned normally flares outwardly away from the side facesof the toe portion of the last but toward the plane 1 of the last bottom as may be clearly seen in Fig. 1. In this condition the margin of the upper is engaged at the end and opposite corners, and preferably along the opposite sides, of the toe. This engagement may advantageously be made by grippers comprising inner and outer sectional jaws 5, 6. I prefer to arrange the sections, of which there may be two or more sections, so that the upper will be received in its normal, outwardly flared position and seized on a substantially continuous, although not necessarily absolutely continuous, line free from wrinkles extending from one side of the toe around the end of the toe to the other side. I then tension the upper, and if necessary, adjust it to position the lines ofthe upper including the ti seam and the lacing slit correctly on the ast, while holding it substantially free from wrinkles around the toe, by relatively moving the grippers and the last. Thetensioning is shown as done by forcing the last into the upper by a forward movement of the sole rest 4 endwise toward the operator. The adjustment, when necessary, is obtained by giving to the last any one or more of the following movements: an endwise upward or downward movement, as indicated by full and dotted lines in Fig. 3, to obtain the desired length of toe tip; a movement upon any one of its three axes, viz., its longitudinal axis to shift the lacing slit transversely relatively to the last; an axis" extending transversely across the tially free from wrinkles over the toe toe to draw the middle of the tip seam forward over the top face-of the last or to allow it in any particular shoe the upper is put under tension and correctly positioned substan- P tion of the last and is so held by the sole rest 4 .and grippers 5, 6, the pulling-over operation being interrupted or terminated at this point without overdrawing or tacking the upper around the toe. I

The upper is next engaged along a preferably continuous line extending om one side or one corner of the toe around the end of the toe to the other corner or the other side of the toe. This line will be preferably located between the gripped margin of the upper and the top face of the last. As herein shown this engagement is made by toe embracing wipers or lasting plates 8 that have an advancing and closing movement in a single plane to embrace the upper around the toe near the grippers and work the marginal portion of the tensioned upper in wardly to lasted position upon the innersole. In this operation the wipers first gather the upper inwardly toward the edge of the last bottom and if it is free from wrinkles and is maintained under tension it can be gathered to the edge of the last bottom without the formation of wrinkles in it. At the point during such gathering and the following wiping of the upper over the last bottom at which giving up stock is necessary the gripper jaws 5, 6 are opened enough to allow the upper to slip between them the extent required to relax the tension on the upper and allow the overwiping to be completed without rupturing the upper. By maintaining a smoothly stretched upper under pulling-over tension while it is being gathered and wiped into lasted relation to the edge of the shoe bottomno wrinkles are allowed to form over that part of the toe which will be visible in the completed shoe. In this way a smoothly lasted toe is produced by utilizing the pulling-over tension undiminished and without applying a new lasting tension or a renewed tension such as is necessary when a shoe is first pulled over and tacked in pulled over position and is subsequently subjected to an independent lasting operation. It is characteristic of this method that the pulling-over portion of the operation upon the shoe is dependent upon the lasting operation to secure the upniaaeae consequently a part or all of the steps. of

freeing the upper from wrinkles around; the toe, is omitted, and the latter partfijtlie:

lasting operation is grafted on to the-inter. rupted pulling-over operation, after the up-g; per has been properly tensioned and thef correct lines of the upper have beenestablished. The savin is obvious in tirnepforce or power and ban ling of the shoe, and'efii ciency in this portion of shoemaking isflpro moted in a manner which will be readily understood. As I am advised it is new byth1sT1nvena tion to pull over an upper andhold it the corners of the toe, whichfollow- 'ft rom overdrawin and securing it in pulledoverposition, W ile working the upper over the edge of the shoe bottom towardlasted position at the end and corners ot the toe.

After the upper has been gathered in to the edge of the last and the wipers have assumed control of it so that it cannot slack back or wrinkles form in it, the tension can be safely relaxed-as required to give up stock for the overwiping and securing steps and the grippers may be finally disengaged from the upper as shown in Figs. 7 and 8. The upper must then be secured to conserve the benefits of the operation, and this I preferably accomplish by the use of a toe binding wire passed around the toe from one side of the forepart to the other side and having its ends secured to anchor tacks, Fig. 2, inserted at the sides of the toe by the tackers 10, Figs. 8 and 10.

Reference may be made to the specification of said prior application for a description of the operating mechanism for the portions of the preferred apparatus here referred to as preferably used in practising this method.

It will be only necessary here to describe that the gripper jaws are closed by connections 46, 50, 52, Fig. 9, to a foot treadle 54. The sole rest 4 is advanced by a connection 62, 64;, Fig. 9, to a foot treadle 65. The wipers 8 are a lvanced and closed by connections, 82, 81, 85, 86 to a hand lever 90. The tackers are operated by a, connection 122, 126, Fig. 9, with a driving spring 128 which is tensioned by a hand bar 130 and is tripped by connections 140, 150, 154, 155 with a foot treadle 156.

Having explained the nature of this in vention and fully described how it may be practised ll claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States 1. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in arranging an innersole and upper materials upon a last 'with the forepart portion of the upper movable relatively to the'last; positioning the shoe with the portion of the upper which extends over the forepart of the last visible tipthe operative standing in working relation to the shoe; pulling-over the shoe including the steps ofengaging the margin of the upper at the end and opposite sides of the forepart of the last and tensioning the Inpper about the last, inspecting the tensioned upper and if necessary adjusting the upper and the last relatively to position the upper correctly; and then lasting the toe portion of the shoe by engaging the upper on a substantially continuous line extending from one side of the toe around the tension and substantially free from t ,se wrinkles around the toe, and particularly-at end of the toe to the other side and working the marginal portion of the tensioned upper inwardly to lasted position over the inner-sole; and securing the overworked upper at the end and opposite sides of the toe in lasted position; all while the shoe remains in substantiallythe same position with its forepart visible to the operative.

2. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in arranging an innersole and upper materials upon a last with the forepart portion of the upper movable relatively to the last; pullingover the shoe including the steps of engaging the margin of the upper on a substantially continuous line extending from one side of the toe around the end of the toe to theother side and relatively moving the last and the engaged portion of the upper to pull and, if necessary, to adjust the upper about the sides and end of the toe portion of the last; and then lasting the toe portion of the shoe by engaging the upper below said line around the end and sides of the toe and working it, still under tension, over the edge of the innersole, and then relaxing the tension to. permit the margin of the upper to be wiped into lasted position upon the shoe bottom and secured.

3. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in arranging an upper with its forepart movable on its last and pulling-over the shoe by engaging in its normal outwardly flared position the toe portion of the upper on a substantially continuous line extending around the toe of the last and holding the upper outwardly away from the edge of the innersole and tensioning it over the toe portion of the last and then, while continuing the tension, lasting the toe portion of the shoe by embracing the toe below the said line and wiping into lasted position a continuoussection of said upper extending around the toe.

4. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in arranging an innersole and upper materials upon a last; pulling-over the shoe, including the establishing of correct lines for the upper with relation to the last while the upper is under tension; interrupting the pulling-over operation when the upper has been tensioned and the correct lines of the upper have been obtained, and at once beginning the lasting operation at the end and corners of the toe.

5. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in arranging an innersole and upper materials upon a last, with the forepart of the upper movable .on the last, and pulling-over the upper by engaging its margin on a substantiall continuous line around the toe of the fast in such manner as to hold it substantially free from wrinkles" in that portion of the toe of the shoe which is exposed to view in the completed shoe, and then lasting the toe portion of the shoe by working the upper over the edge of the shoe bottom into lasted position at the end and corners of the toe.

6. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in arranging an innersole and upper materials upon a last; pulling-over the shoe by seizing and stretching the forepart portion of the upper at the sides and toe end of the forepart of the last and, while holding it under tension, adjusting the 'upper and the last relatively to obtain the correct location of the lines of the shoe in the tensioned upper; and then lasting the toe of the shoe by working into lasted position a substantially continuous section of the upper extending from one side of the toe around to the other side.

7. That improvement in methods of mak ing shoes which consists in seizing the forepart of an upper at the end and sides of the toe and pulling-over the upper, including the establishing of correct lines for the upper with relation to the last while the upper is under tension and, while the top face of the forepart of the shoe is within substantially unobstructed view of the operative, interrupting the pulling-over operation at this point with the upper held under tension; then embracing the toe portion of the upper on a line extending from one side of the toe around the end to the other side and gathering the'upper still under tension inwardly toward the edge of the last; and relaxing the tension to permit the gathering in movement to be extended to carry the upper into lasted position upon the shoe bottom.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

ELI BROTHERS.

Witnesses:

JOHN BUCKLE, E. J. RAY. 

